2017221(火)

Meet your Maker

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Meet your Maker: Olivia Douchez, head of Chanel's 'flou' couture atelier

At just 34, Olivia Douchez is remarkably young to be responsible for a team of 40-plus petites mains – the seamstresses who bring to life the bespoke designs conceived by Chanel’s creative director Karl Lagerfeld. Particularly considering this is the venerable world of haute couture.

But Douchez knew from a very young age that she wanted to work in fashion, and her passion for the techniques of garment-making saw her embark on professional training aged 15. After 10 years at Givenchy, she was headhunted by Chanel in 2015.

"I couldn’t believe my ears," she says of receiving the call. Then came several interviews, a decisive one with Mr. Lagerfeld himself: "It was the craziest, most stressful day of my life."

Douchez now enjoys a privileged position as one of Lagerfeld’s closest collaborators. Six weeks before Chanel’s bi-annual couture shows, he will present to her and three fellow heads of atelier his sketches for the collection and talk through each design.

As the head of one of the two "flou" ateliers (which create everything that is soft, not tailored) it is Douchez’s responsibility to make each look a reality. Assigning the construction to her team, she will oversee the making of around 20 dresses, often suggesting fabrics and finishes.

"One of my favourite aspects of the job is these meetings with Karl. I love to hear him talk through his vision and nothing leaves me feeling as content as when he is happy, when we have brought to life what he imagined."

Once the collection has been presented to press and buyers, Douchez spends the year fulfilling orders, making a mannequin to fit each customer’s exact measurements, which is then stored in the Chanel ateliers in Paris, and travelling to the US, Dubai and London for fittings.

"I love to satisfy my clients’ needs, to make sure that they will have a beautiful dress that fits them like a glove. I love the magic that happens when a sketch becomes a reality."

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この記事のURL2017-02-21 13:40:45

2017218(土)

Is your foundation ageing you

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For most women, foundation is a daily make-up essential. Whether we prefer powder, cream or liquid, many of us refuse to go further than the front door without applying it. But there is a fine line between a veil of camouflage and a caked-on mask. The latter not only ages you, but is beginning to feel dated. After years of overly made-up, Photoshopped and filtered skin in magazines and on Instagram, paring back feels fresh and liberating.

Mac’s director of artistry, Terry Barber, agrees: ‘Women don’t want to be fixed or look ‘done’ any more. It’s about pinpointing your problem areas and washing over them with a gloss.’ By ‘gloss’, Barber means the flattering, pearlescent radiance that you get from Mac’s iconic Strobe Cream, which is now available in an array of tints to add warmth to your skin. Whether you apply it alone or mixed into your moisturiser, the finish means you won’t need foundation.

Becca’s range of Priming Filters offers a similar effect. If you battle with redness across your cheeks, around your nose and on your chin, or your under-eye area needs more than just concealer to lighten its dark circles, colour correctors will be your best friend. Most make-up brands launched a colour-correcting stick or palette last year, but cultbeauty.co.uk’s co-founder Alexia Inge predicts that 2017 will really be their year. ‘Over the past few months we’ve seen a huge rise in both online searches and sales of colour-correcting complexion products,’ Inge says.

Urban Decay has lightweight liquids, Cover FX offers balm-like sticks, and NYX has a foolproof, cheap-as-chips palette that evens out skin tone in seconds. While you do need to follow up with concealer for a seamless finish, these tints and balms will make your foundation redundant – and make you look younger as a result.

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この記事のURL2017-02-18 15:48:13

2017216(木)

What to expect at next week

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What to expect at next week

What to expect at next week’s Doha Jewellery & Watches Exhibition

The Qatari Big 5, global names ranging from Chanel and Cartier to Graff and Rolex, independent jewellers from France, India, Lebanon and Turkey, and emerging designers from Doha, there is plenty at the Doha Jewellery & Watches exhibition to keep visitors enthralled.

The 14th edition of the annual DJWE event is being held this year from February 20 to February 25 in Doha’s West Bay area. Centred on a fairy-tale-inspired theme – Once Upon a Time … Luxury – the event will showcase more than 400 brands through 40 exhibitors from 10 countries.

Qatar’s top luxury groups, including Al Fardan, Ali bin Ali, Al Darwish, Al Majed and Blue Salon will take over the majority of the stalls. Between them, these groups represent and retail many of the world’s biggest watch and jewellery houses in Qatar, and have been exhibiting at DJWE since its inception more than a decade ago. Some of the high-profile brands they will showcase this year include Hublot, Patek Philippe, Van Cleef & Arpels, Ulysse Nardin, Montblanc, Boucheron, Breitling and MB&F.

In addition, Qatar’s most prestigious shopping destination, Fifty One East, has launched the Young Qatari Designers initiative, a platform enabling budding local talent to showcase their collections. The designers that have been brought on board this year include: Noor Al Fardan, known for her Arabian and henna-inspired designs; Nada Al Sulaiti, who embodies the concept of wearable art; Sarah Al Hammadi, who specialises in bridal and wedding jewellery; Fajr Al Attiya, who creates symbolic four-leaf clover designs; Nouf Al Meer, who is inspired by animals and nature; and Ghada Al Bouanain, who works with unconventional materials such as pipes and wires.

Another first at DJWE this year is the Objectif Horlogerie workshop. Enthusiasts can play watchmaker for a day by attending this accredited session conducted by the Paris-based clock-specialists. Guests can observe and participate in the disassembling, cleaning, lubrication, reassembling and adjustment of a mechanical timepiece. Takebacks include a diploma from Objectif Horlogerie as well as a manual and tutorial, so you can continue to practise your new skills. The 90-minute sessions are held several times over the course of the five days and are free to preregister for on the website.

Lovers of classic and vintage jewellery are in for a treat, too. A specially curated exhibition will showcase vintage, privately owned jewels and timepieces never before shown in Doha. Additionally, you can visit stalls by seven independent jewellers: Davidor from France, Bellina Collection from Italy, Voyageur from Lebanon, Baheti from India, Karun Jewellery from Turkey, Anan Anjamani from Thailand and Amber by Mazukna from Lithuania.

State-of-the-art timepieces and vintage and contemporary jewels aside, the Doha Jewellery & Watches Exhibition will also play host to Studio Harcourt, which opened its doors in Paris in 1934. Known for its high-profile clients – from Salvador Dalí and Queen Rania of Jordan to Marion Cotillard, Michael Schumacher Kevin Spacey and Karl Lagerfeld – the studio will set up a temporary pavilion at DJWE where visitors can get their own black-and-white Harcourt’s portrait, shot using its characteristic style, lighting and make-up.​

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この記事のURL2017-02-16 15:18:10

2017214(火)

A tale of two red carpets

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It was the best of times, it was the worst of times. Two major awards shows on at the same time, albeit with a vast pond separating them.

While the stars of the big screen hot-footed it to chilly London for the Baftas, the musicians headed to Los Angeles for the Grammy Awards.

Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, was the headline attraction on the red carpet at the British Academy Film Awards. However, another royal - the world's unofficial queen - Beyonce, stole the show at the Grammys.

Full skirts and chests that were more heavily adorned than the Rockefeller Centre Christmas tree lit up the Baftas red carpet, thanks to Nicole Kidman in a plunging Armani Prive dress with jewel-encrusted bodice and Emily Blunt in a McQueen gown that had more embroidery than a CWA fete.

The Duchess of Cambridge, in a black, off-the-shoulder, voluminous Alexander McQueen gown, set an elegant tone. La La Land star Emma Stone followed her lead and teamed a glittery Chanel dress with equally shiny pants, and Meryl Streep wore a silk pashmina over her black suit.

While at the Grammys, a slightly warmer evening saw more flesh on display both on the red carpet and during the ceremony.

A pregnant Beyonce kept the conspiracy theorists - who suggested she faked the 2011 gestation of daughter Blue Ivy - at bay, by appearing on stage proudly displaying a naked baby bump. Former Roberto Cavalli creative director Peter Dundas provided some modest coverings as well as her other costume that had more gold than the open pits of Kalgoorlie.

It may only be February but the "under boob" may be the thigh gap of 2017, as showcased by Lady Gaga, who wore a leather jacket by Alex Ulichny that was so cropped it could also be sold as nipple pasties.

J.Lo, representing Australia in Ralph & Russo couture, dressed like a bridesmaid from 1995 who stole some of the bonbonniere trimmings to jazz up her look with an oversized choker. She also accessorised her fluffy lilac ensemble with a toned quad muscle and well preserved sternum.

Katy Perry shook things up by arriving like she had been dragged through the back streets of Surry Hills after Mardi Gras, thanks to a molten and feathery Tom Ford creation and new, tousled blonde hair. The sparkly, scruffy creation, together with Rihanna's Lorna Jane-inspired neon crop top and Solange Knowles deconstructed CP30 Gucci look, ensured the Grammys were the spring of hope amidst America's winter of despair.

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この記事のURL2017-02-14 15:21:57

2017210(金)

Working With Gigi Hadid

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Kelsey Merritt on Her Crazy Student-Model Schedule and Working With Gigi Hadid

Kelsey Merritt is living an unusual usual model life. She’s currently a student in Ateneo and also signed to Wilhelmina Models in New York City. She juggles that on top of other endorsement projects under her sleeve, which also includes being Maybelline’s new ambassador. It’s like how Tyra Banks had to split her time from to study in high school and do modeling gigs back in the day.

In this quick #PreenPopQuiz, we got a glimpse of what Kelsey deals with as a model and student, as well as her go-to products and what it was like working with Gigi Hadid.

As a model and student, how do you balance everything?

It’s really crazy. I have some pretty crazy stories actually. [One time,] I had to do my papers [on a plane since it was the middle of the semester.] I was so tired because of the time difference, but I never missed deadlines. Even though I wanted to sleep, I really couldn’t put it aside. It’s worked for me so far.

Any other crazy stories?

So, I’m a student ‘di ba? I get emails from my agency that I have to leave the country for a shoot, and this happens in the middle of the semester.

Like this one time in third year college, I got an email from my agency that I got confirmed for Vera Wang. They told me that they’ll send my flight details soon. Since there’s a time difference, I usually get emails in the middle of the night. One day, it was weird that I woke up [at 6 a.m.] and I looked at my email, and saw that they had sent me my flight details. My flight was three hours after they’d sent me the email. So I woke up and said to myself, “I have a flight to New York in three hours—haven’t showered, haven’t packed, haven’t even told my parents yet.”

On the way to the airport, I called my mom and told her that I’m going to New York. She was like, “What?!”

What do you usually bring with you, especially for impromptu trips?

Prior to the Vera Wang call, I pretty much know what I need to bring. So it’s just a check list in my head of what to put in my bag. Just the basics—clothes, underwear, makeup. Especially if you come from a flight, you have to be fresh and look good. Makeup just makes you feel better.

What are the beauty products you usually bring to touch up?

I actually like Maybelline’s micellar water to remove my makeup. My skin’s really sensitive and it just doesn’t go well with other products. I use this because it’s not harsh on the skin and it takes off my makeup really well, and I like carrying it around.

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この記事のURL2017-02-10 15:53:30

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