2017118(水)

Berlin Fashion Week

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Berlin Fashion Week Kicks Off With Antonia Goy’s Deconstructed Tailoring

Berlin-based label Antonia Goy presented it’s first ever runway show as part of Berlin Fashion Week’s Der Berliner Mode Salon, despite being around since 2006. The design duo behind the brand – the eponymous Antonia Goy and Bjoern Kubeja – come from a fashion and architecture background respectively, which is highlighted in the collection through highly structured and complex silhouettes.

The collection, named ALIEN-NATION, takes inspiration from the current world climate and specifically the identity of the female silhouette. Hard masculine tailoring is softened by flowing asymmetric details, while classically masculine plaid and stripe prints are glamorized by metallic viscose jersey, abstract florals and pops of fuchsia pink. This contradiction references the need for freedom and peaceful coexistence in the world today.

Accoutrements including leather sock garters – used to accessorize sleeves and high heels – and extraneous bows on shirt and pant cuffs added a deconstructed edge that felt very much in line with current trends.

All in all Antonia Goy’s latest offering makes a statement about the modern woman navigating our world, trying to make a nation of difference.

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この記事のURL2017-01-18 13:32:12

2017116(月)

UAE handbag brand

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Socially aware UAE handbag brand Palestyle launches its comeback collection

"Get Palestyled" – that is the motto of a UAE label best known for its handbags decorated with Arabic calligraphy and colourful hand embroidery that is produced by women in refugee camps in Jordan.

Palestyle, previously stocked at stores including Bloomingale’s Dubai and S*uce, has had a quiet few years while undergoing restructuring and rebranding. Now, however, it is back on track for the new year, with a 2017 comeback collection.

"The past year was about restructuring Palestyle in terms of operations and branding," says Palestyle ­founder and designer Zeina Abou Chaaban. "This includes a new social media campaign coming up, and the launch of our full-fledged online boutique.

"Lots of work has gone into moving production of the leather handbags to Italy – so Palestyle handbags are made in Italy now, and the embroidery travels from the refugee camps in Jordan to the Italian workshops."

The brand’s signature clutches are characterised by bold gold plates of Arabic calligraphy – usually circle-shaped and often bordered by a halo of crystals – in the centre of crocodile-textured clutches.

These designs were an instant hit with Middle Eastern customers, and quickly ­influenced other leather brands. But Abou Chaaban is not one to complain about such imitation.

"In the world of fashion, being copied means setting a trend, and being a trendsetter is a success that absolutely thrills us," she says. "In addition, one part of Palestyle’s DNAs is Arabic heritage, so taking part in spreading our beautiful heritage and seeing it on other brands makes us feel very proud."

The new collection stays true to Palestyle’s vibrant, glamorous aesthetic, with an elevated, on-trend touch.

In some pieces, see-through panels are added to leather bags decorated with Palestinian embroidery, and smaller, keychain versions of the Arabic calligraphy carvings.

The range includes winged bags and compact box styles, with colourful, layered straps. The clutches take a minimalist approach, trading in its bold, circular ­calligraphic plates for more dainty, vertical script styles.

Abou Chaaban, an entrepreneur with a social mission to empower and provide work to struggling refugee women, is remarkably humble. Though one of the brand’s highlights was adding actress Eva Longoria to its client list, the businesswoman does not mention this when asked about her proudest moments.

Instead she lists achievements of a more altruistic nature, including opening a library for Syrian refugee children in Jordan’s Al ­Mafraq City in December.

"The sense of ownership we saw in the eyes of the children for their brand new library was indescribable," she says.

The designer is also pleased to see the art of hand embroidery being revived among young girls in refugee camps.

"As handmade embroidery is threatened by machine, one of our proud moments was reviving the art of embroidery among the daughters of the refugee women, who before seeing their moms making trendy embroidery for Palestyle did not want to even learn the skill," she says.

Last year, Palestyle was hired by Coca-Cola to decorate cans with designs based on the brand’s signature embroidery motifs.

"Customising the Coca-Cola cans with embroidery patterns and having more than a million produced was a dream come true," says Abou Chaaban.

"Through this collaboration we truly highlighted Palestyle’s responsibility in spreading the beautiful art of embroidery, which is part of our rich culture and a source of income to refugee women."

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この記事のURL2017-01-16 13:40:12

2017112(木)

Cindy Crawford

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Marie Claire Image Makers Awards Draw Janelle Monae, Jessica Alba, Cindy Crawford

Marie Claire fashion magazine took its turn Tuesday night hosting an awards ceremony in Los Angeles that drew a starry crowd, including Janelle Monae, Jennifer Aniston, Jessica Alba and Kylie Jenner.

The second annual Image Makers awards, held at Catch restaurant in West Hollywood, honored the talent behind Hollywood’s talent — the makeup artists, hair and fashion stylists.

Why host an event like this? “Are you kidding? These people know everything,” said Marie Claire editor-in-chief Anne Fulenwider, joking about how Hollywood's fashion and beauty insiders are the secret source for everything from the latest plastic surgery tips to who is dating whom.

After sipping rose cocktails and nibbling on sushi around the bar, the crowd convened in the dining room for the awards. One of the evening’s highlights was Hidden Figures star Janelle Monae presenting the New Guard: Stylist Award to her stylist Maeve Reilly.

When the two first started working together four years ago, Monae was on vocal rest, so they had to talk fashion in silence. “I had to mouth to her,” the singer/actress said. Apparently, the communication lines were fine; with the help of Reilly, formerly a men’s stylist, Monae was able to create her style persona around menswear. (“I was her first female client,” Monae recalled.)

Later, the songstress had a vision to dress all in black and white, a political sartorial device she developed to “pay homage to my working-class roots.” (Her mom was a janitor, her father a trash man and her stepfather a postal worker.) Reilly was able to translate that, too. "The best stylists are the ones who don't follow trends. They let you be you," Monae said.

Cristina Ehrlich, who styles Anna Kendrick, Brie Larson, Priyanka Chopra and Julia Louis-Dreyfus among others, was also honored. “Stylists are responsible for the look of a brand, which is a celebrity,” said Marie Claire creative director and Project Runway judge Nina Garcia, introducing Ehrlich.

“When I started doing this, we faxed in our requests … and there was no social media,” Ehrlich added. “It was a different game.”

Jennifer Aniston introduced longtime hairstylist Chris McMillan, who created her iconic Rachel cut when she was on Friends, calling him a “true visual artist.” “To the man I’d be lost in the woods without, without whom I’d look lost in the woods,” she joked.

Celebrity makeup artist Daniel Martin picked up the New Guard: Makeup Artist Award from star client and Honest Beauty collaborator Jessica Alba, who recalled the first time they worked together in Paris, the morning after she’d arrived having had too much champagne on the flight, when her eyes were puffy, she was bloated and tired. “He busted out these magic balls, these cool balls to put on my eyes.” It wasn’t the last time Martin saved the day, Alba said.

The evening ended with Cindy Crawford presenting the Icon award to Balmain designer Olivier Rousteing, noting his work advocating for diversity in fashion, and bringing social media into the luxury branding world. Rousteing, who dressed Crawford, Alba and Kylie Jenner for the evening, recalled for guests his humble background as an orphan and thanked his adopted parents. “This award I give to all the kids who believe in their dreams.”

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この記事のURL2017-01-12 13:03:31

2017110(火)

YSL Beauty Pop-Up Shop

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YSL Beauty Pop-Up Shop Opening In Los Angeles

On Tuesday, Jan. 10, Yves Saint Laurent Beauty will launch the first U.S. location of The Lip Showroom, a two-day pop-up shop in the kiosk in front of the theater at Ace Hotel in downtown Los Angeles, open from noon to 8 p.m. both days. The concept originally debuted in Asia in early 2016, traveling to Korea, China and Japan before touching down in L.A.

A second U.S. pop-up may land in New York City in September, according to Verane de Marffy, vp of marketing for Yves Saint Laurent Beauty at L'Oreal.

"YSL is about cool, edgy couture — first with [former creative director] Hedi Slimane and now with Anthony Vaccarello — and a freestanding store is really important in order to convey a unique brand experience to the customer," said de Marffy in an exclusive interview with THR. "I think that of all our [beauty] categories that lip is really the one where we’re the most innovative. There are almost 200 shades and we have so much depth in terms of formulas, from sheer to full coverage to long-wear. Then there is the iconic packaging. And in May, we became the first beauty brand in the U.S. to offer engraving of lipstick online, of any makeup actually, with a name or message or hashtag at yslbeauty.com, and it took off like wildfire."

YSL lip product sales were up 31 percent last year, according to NPD Group market research. "It's exciting to keep the momentum going," she added.

The Lip Showroom will offer about 45 products, according to de Marffy, including 36 shades of Rouge Pur Couture Glossy Stain, Rouge Pur Couture Lipstick, Rouge Vulopté Shine and Vinyl Cream Lip Stain (the newest lip product, launched in May) as well as five hues of a limited-edition, star-embellished version of the brand’s signature Touche Éclat aluminizing concealer, and two fragrances: Black Opium and Mon Paris. Customers also can have lip products engraved on-site with up to 14 characters for no extra charge.

"Since [former creative director] Hedi Slimane is from Los Angeles and so integrated in the community, L.A. has almost become a mini hub for the Saint Laurent brand and, more specifically, we are also having an event for our new brand ambassador, musician-model Staz Lindes, who is from L.A.," said de Marffy, when asked why Los Angeles was chosen as the debut location for the pop-up shop. (It sounds like the plan could have been in the works before Slimane's departure from the fashion house in the spring of 2016.)

A private party on Tuesday, dubbed The YSL Beauty Club Tour, will celebrate the appointment of Lindes, a Venice Beach native who succeeds Cara Delevingne as the new face of YSL Beauty. The 23-year-old (who fronts the band The Paranoyds and is the daughter of former Dire Straits guitarist Hal Lindes) was a Slimane muse who made her modeling debut at the spring 2016 Saint Laurent show. Lindes’ brother Misha’s band SadGirl will perform at the party, and a star-studded young Hollywood crowd is expected to attend, including Zelda Williams, Emma Roberts, Ireland Baldwin, Brandon Thomas Lee and Dylan Jagger Lee.

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この記事のURL2017-01-10 12:18:47

201717(土)

11 bankruptcy to block foreclosure

Fashion Square Mall files Chapter 11 bankruptcy to block foreclosure

Fashion Square Mall owners filed a Chapter 11 bankruptcy on Friday, while accusing its lender -- The Bancorp -- of cutting off promised funding for planned renovations.

The bankruptcy filing Friday automatically halts a foreclosure lawsuit filed Tuesday by The Bancorp against Fashion Square, which alleged that the mall owner had fallen behind on payments for its $42.2 million loan.

The bankruptcy documents state that the mall owner, an affiliate of Tennessee-based UP Development, withheld payments on the loan because it learned that Bancorp was "misrepresenting" details of the renovation plans. But the bank has alleged that UP has "grossly mismanaged" the mall and failed to pay taxes.

Bancorp has declined to comment on the bankruptcy or other allegations, framing its arguments only in court filings. The bank has alleged that UP Development has accounting problems, in addition to defaulting on its loan.

An attorney for the mall, which is still open, says Fashion Square will remain open and will continue pursuing new stores, a new hotel and other major improvements.

"We want to move forward with renovating the mall, adding a hotel, new apartments and new stores," said R. Scott Shuker, bankruptcy attorney for the mall. "The owner, Scott Fish, is all in on this."

UP Development, based in Tennessee, was in talks with Starwood Hotels to build a hotel near the 1970s-era mall. Among other plans: Replacing a closed Sears store with a new Orchard Supply Hardware and Floor & Decor, among other things.

UP Development says the bank promised to fund the hotel and other renovations, and, as recently as September, was still participating in talks with UP Development and other developers about new hotels and apartments in the area.

The mall owners claim they attempted to negotiate a loan workout with Bancorp when, recently, the bank contacted each of the tenants in the Mall and "demanded that they pay their rent directly to Bancorp."

Fashion Square's foreclosure issues are just the latest troubles for Orlando area malls. Many have tried to reinvent themselves, but have mostly failed. Festival Bay, West Oaks, Oviedo and even Winter Park Mall struggled and a few even met the wrecking ball.

The mall owners "hope to restructure existing debts and return to operating the Fashion Square property at a profit," Shuker said.

In 2013, UP bought about 80 acres including the aging mall and surrounding property. That includes the property that houses J.C. Penney, Dillard's and Macy's. An investment firm now owns the former Sears, Sears Auto Center and surrounding parking lot.

Since buying the mall, UP has seen a Dick's Sporting Goods open and sold an adjacent parcel, the former Anthem College site, for the construction of a $50 million apartment complex, Alexan at Audubon.

UP has been busy elsewhere in Central Florida. The City of Eatonville approved a $20 million deal this week for UP to buy 111.5 acres for retail and residential use -- under a completely separate affiliated company.

UP is working to develop another 23 acres near Mall at Millenia, which includes space for two new luxury car dealerships.

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この記事のURL2017-01-07 13:31:15

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