2017920(水)

Natalie Imbruglia on

Natalie Imbruglia on how to dress for the races (and it doesn’t require a hat)

The musician returns to Australia for racing season, and we requested her style tips.

As a country whose style stock-in-trade is laid-back ease, what to wear to the races can leave a question mark lingering. This year, as the exclusive guest of Sensis Digital Marketing, treasured Australian singer Natalie Imbruglia will return home to be trackside on Derby Day, which has us wondering how she does race wear.

In the black and white realms of Derby Day, Imbruglia uses some simple rules. One: start with a single element. “I will probably start with the dress and work my way up!,” she says saying practicality plays a big role for her. “Comfort is most important.”

With race wear’s tendency toward statement pieces, and a lot of competing aesthetics on display, the singer-songwriter cuts through by dialling things back. “Although Derby Day is an opportunity to stand out and push the envelope a little, simple and chic is hard to beat,” she says. “How you accessorise can turn a plain outfit into something really chic.”

So start simple and build working your way up to the millinery, which Imbruglia says should be well-considered. “This is the finishing touch to your outfit so you have to get it right. You don’t want the hat to wear you. I only wear a hat if I can find one that will be comfortable for the whole day.”

No hat? Then a sound base will carry you. Investing in good shoes, Imbruglia says, can save the day and your feet. “I’ve always invested in good shoes. I can wear a heel all day if they are made well. Prada, YSL or Alaia are my go-to shoes for comfort and style.”

Returning after a tour of Europe, Imbruglia says performing at home is something she always looks forward to. “Australia is my homeland so it will always be special to play there. And Aussies know how to have a good time which is what you want from an audience.”

Imbruglia will be performing at the Sensis Digital Marketing Marquee on Derby Day, and yes, expect to hear ’Torn’. “I’m expecting people to be in good spirits and hopefully they will be ready to sing along with me.” And no doubt, following her rules, in good attire too.

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この記事のURL2017-09-20 12:25:35

2017918(月)

Giorgio Armani on

Giorgio Armani on London fashion week: 'It's the only true city where you see the creative turmoil'

As a designer, Giorgio Armani is best known for his understated aesthetic of fluid suits in shades of beige, but his presence at London fashion week over the past few days has been pretty attention-grabbing.

In the lead-up to his first Emporio Armani show in London for a decade, at a warehouse in the East End on Sunday, he has beamed his logo across County Hall. He has installed a retinue of a hundred or so global employees on a floor of his Mayfair headquarters. All of a sudden, all of the taxis and buses in W1 are covered in his branding.

London is important to Armani. “It is probably the only true city where you see the creative turmoil,” he says. “You can feel, you can sense it.

“Paris is very romantic, because the people who actually manage the city want it to stay the same. But London is truly modern.”

He came here in the 1970s, when he first set up his label. “Carnaby Street was a huge source of inspiration. Like everyone else, I found it to be a magical moment for the place and time. But then I distilled that and tried to adapt it following my own vision.”

The fashion industry, which is comfortable with hyperbole, describes Armani as the king, even the god, of style. He is certainly the living designer who – like Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent before him – has most profoundly changed the way we all dress. Over 42 years his business has mushroomed into a sprawling empire with several different clothing lines as well as hotels, real estate, beauty, watches, chocolates, interiors and eyewear. According to Forbes, he is worth $8.6bn.

Meeting him is quite an experience. We are in a large room at Armani HQ, surrounded by rack upon rack of clothes and half a dozen trestle tables covered in hundreds of accessories and handbags. Armani is being photographed against the black velvet backdrop strictly stipulated by his team in advance. His suited advisers hover around the photographer, proffering advice about camera angles.

I am ushered over to shake his hand, which Armani keeps holding as he leaps up and guides me into a private sideroom. There he sits on a grey bucket chair, with one leg curled up on the seat. He is wearing a navy blue cashmere jumper, navy blue trousers and bright white trainers with little white trainer socks. The designer owes his age-defying bicep definition, he says, to an hour and a half in the gym every morning. “I am very careful with what I eat. That’s why restaurants are not too easy. Because I am very picky.”

This would be a cosy set-up, were it not for the three men in Armani suits who sit with us. One of them translates (Armani does not do interviews in English, although, after decades of dressing the likes of Richard Gere and Cate Blanchett, he must speak a bit of it). Another is Armani’s English PR. The third – the most sharply dressed of the three, with dark, Brylcreemed hair – I am never introduced to.

Armani is enjoyably grumpy on a number of topics. He is a “simpatico” boss, but “when I do realise that things are not going as I planned, the people who work for me, they will know. It will be painful for them to realise.”

He loves London’s buzz and the history of the city, but not “the level of service, the attention to detail in places like restaurants, where the men are always just wearing a shirt.

“I would have expected more. Businessmen, just wearing a shirt in a restaurant? That’s not right.”

A lot of fashion now is novelty for novelty’s sake. “There are still some things I love to see young people wear. And others I profoundly detest. You need respect,” he says emphatically. “Even what you wear, presenting yourself in front of people, you should show respect through that.”“I think it’s right for them to try new things, to be daring, to experiment, because for those brands it would be very risky not to. The real challenge is to be a creative designer but still be true to your own style, without stealing ideas from your colleagues, your friends, people you meet.” Armani’s London extravaganza is part of a reorganisation of the company, which last year concentrated seven design lines into three after a 5% dip in revenue. The restructuring should, he says, “produce a lot more clarity in the eyes of the final consumer”. This relaunch includes the “reopening” of Emporio Armani’s flagship store on Bond Street. “As I bought the business back,” he says, “I had to rethink the whole way the country and the market was managed.”

How does he manage such a huge portfolio in such detail? Why doesn’t he just hang out on his yacht? “The true answer,” he says, “is I don’t know. A lot of people my age are playing with their grandchildren or with a dog. I have 10,000 people in my company who are waiting for my guidance, for my leadership, to know what they are supposed to do. I can’t do it any other way. That’s why I have to do it.”

In 2003, when Armani was a lad of 69, he said: “It would be ridiculous for a designer to still be in place at 85”. He is now 83, and his succession plan – the establishment of a Giorgio Armani Foundation – was announced only recently. The foundation, he says, was the best plan to ensure this “very rich, very liquid” company will continue, and will invest in charity and culture appropriately. I didn’t want to just leave it on the shoulders of my heirs, this big task which is also a bit of a burden,” he says. “I wanted to designate the people who would do it.”

Does he have any ambitions? “I’ve done it all,” he says. “I’ve done so many things and all of these things have stolen a bit of my life away, in a way.”

A few times, invisible cues pass between the suited men around me, and then I am asked to wrap up the interview, though Armani, sitting opposite me, fixing me with his steely gaze, has never perceptibly expressed a wish for the interview to be terminated. Eventually I let him go, knowing that he must have given the signal. He is always in charge, after all.

“The puppeteer is me,” he says. “And that’s quite a burden, actually.”

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この記事のURL2017-09-18 14:53:34

2017915(金)

The Power List:

The Power List: the faces setting 2017's fashion agenda

A$AP Rocky

His claim to have been responsible for the return of gold jewellery to the hip-hop community notwithstanding, A$AP always wears it well; an aficionado of Raf Simons and Jeremy Scott, a collaborator with JW Anderson and a dapper dresser who never disappoints.

Rihanna

If 56.3m fangirls are living for your every outfit post on Instagram, you may as well bottle it — and she has, with 10 perfumes to her name. But Ri is also a major fashion force, thanks to her Fenty x Puma range, as well as collaborations with Dior (sunglasses), Manolo Blahnik (shoes) and Chopard (fine jewellery). But her newest, and possibly most lucrative venutre is Fenty Beauty: watch it fly.

Céline Dion

Her heart will go on: thankfully for all of us, her devotion to designer labels will go on, too. Dion’s celebration of Dior, Prada, Valentino and (obvs) Céline is a joyous thing to behold, and the fun she has wearing it is a welcome antidote to all the po-faced seriousness out there, both in the fashion industry and in the world at large.

Bella Hadid

No longer just Gigi’s little sister, Hadid’s chameleon-like looks ensure she’s always in demand, whether on Tom Ford’s catwalk or Victoria’s Secret’s.

Beyoncé

For someone with the heft and majesty of Queen Bey, Knowles entered fairly cautiously into the fashion market, eschewing collaborations for the creation of an activewear range, Ivy Park. Its launch last April marked what is no doubt only the beginning of Bey’s fashion ambitions.

Skepta

‘The clothes don’t make the man, the man makes the clothes,’ Joseph Junior ‘Skepta’ Adenuga told the Evening Standard back in June at the launch of his menswear range. Grime’s golden boy rarely wears his beloved Gucci, Vuitton and Chanel these days: he usually dons his own Mains creations instead. He says you can do great things in a tracksuit, and has a Mercury and an Ivor Novello to prove it.

Cara Delevingne

With a personal fortune estimated at £14m, Cara can afford to be picky about the fashion brands she works with, such as Burberry, Rimmel and Chanel. Since her successful move into the film world (Valerian and Kids in Love) a Cara catwalk appearance is as rare as a hen’s tooth.

Kim Kardashian West

Whatever you think of this unapologetic figure, Kim shifts units, whether of husband Kanye’s Yeezy range or any other label she gets in front of the eyeballs of her 103m Instagram followers. Balmain, Givenchy and Valentino are just some of the beneficiaries of her patronage — seeing her as anything other than an astute businesswoman is a grave misjudgement.

DESIGNERS

Azzedine Alaïa

Tunisian-born Alaïa is the designer’s designer, a man who eschews fashion diktats (such as showing seasonally).

Rei Kawakubo

The arch Japanese avant-gardist who recast fashion in black is as reclusive as she is revered.

Phoebe Philo

Philo has been at Céline for nearly 10 years, in which time she has, oh, only redefined the working woman’s wardrobe.

Stella McCartney

For her wide-ranging partnership with Adidas (she designed Team GB’s Olympic kit) and for championing environmental issues: she refuses to work with fur or leather.

Karl Lagerfeld

Ruling the house of Chanel with a glove-clad iron fist since 1983, Lagerfeld is all-round boss.

Manolo Blahnik

For his integrity and unerringly elegant shoes. Impostors can but dream of equalling him.

Silvia Venturini Fendi

Always innovating, Fendi is as dynamic and luxurious as ever, with a heavy dose of Roman wit making it one of the most covetable labels around.

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この記事のURL2017-09-15 11:50:54

2017913(水)

Vogue Festival will

Vogue Festival will electrify Adelaide's Rundle Mall this spring

Save the date.

Rundle Mall, Adelaide’s hottest shopping precinct, is getting a stylish new visitor in October: Vogue Australia. The inaugural Vogue Festival, which coincides with the Adelaide Fashion Festival, is a two-day gala featuring runway shows, seasonal presentations, giveaways and in-store activities. It’s a must-do for fashion devotees.

Similar to the Vogue American Express Fashion's Night Out events in Sydney and Melbourne, the festival kicks off at midday on Friday, October 13, with a launch hosted by Vogue Australia editor-in-chief Edwina McCann, along with Myer ambassador Jennifer Hawkins and City of Adelaide Lord Mayor Martin Haese.

Later that day, Hawkins will hit the runway for a preview of Myer’s new season collections from Australian brands including Acler, Alex Perry, Finders and Misha Collection. In the evening, Vogue Australia joins forces with David Jones for an AFF designer showcase in a show curated by stylist Nicole Bonython-Hines.

Another must-attend event is the BNKR show, featuring collections from Adelaide's Australian Fashion Labels (AFL), home of brands: Keepsake, C/MEO Collective, Finders, The Fifth and Jaggar. “The energy is high at Adelaide Fashion Festival and the shows sell out,” says AFL’s Melanie Flintoff.

Melanie and husband Dan launched AFL 10 years ago. They now create 12 annual collections for each of their labels, have expanded to four global offices, and wholesale to 22 countries. “It is a milestone for us but we’re most excited about the future,” says Dean. “We’re always looking ahead.”

For Vogue Festival, the BNKR store in Rundle Mall will be celebrating, with rosé champagne, customised gifts and a 25 percent discount for customers. “We’re excited about the partnership with Vogue Australia,” says Melanie. “And the chance to mingle with our customers and celebrate the Adelaide fashion scene.”

Vogue Festival is bursting with exclusive offers. Enrol in free styling sessions at Sass & Bide, enjoy one-off discounts at Zimmermann, score a monogrammed bag tag from cult label The Daily Edited, or have your favourite pair of Levi's patched and personalised at the denim store. Want more? Pop into Bardot, who will be gifting its first 50 customers with a goodie bag.

Beauty addicts can have their tresses tweaked at the Dyson Supersonic Hair Lab, a pop-up offering complimentary styling sessions, or head to The Body Shop for one of its express makeovers.

Foodies can enjoy raw treats and cold-pressed juices at Lululemon, sweet indulgences at Haigh’s Chocolates, or on the main stage, marvel at dancers from The Australian Ballet.

While you're enjoying the fashion fun, make sure you register to win a trip to a global fashion capital, and valued at $10,000. Next stop Paris, New York, Milan or London - the choice is yours.

The festival wraps up with a party presented by East End Social. This afternoon event will feature infectious beats, cocktails and canapes. Mark your calendars!

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この記事のURL2017-09-13 12:07:40

2017911(月)

Meet the Insta-barbers – and the celebs buzzing about them

Meet the Insta-barbers – and the celebs buzzing about them

On almost every city high street in Britain there lies a convivial world where the scent of rubbing alcohol emanates through the air, where the buzzing of clippers fades beneath the sound of barbed debates about everything from last night’s football to immigration policy. Where the amorphous queuing systems are understood only by the artists shaping their customer’s hairlines and the seats are rarely empty. It’s a snapshot of a local community: black barbershops, and all their customs and rituals.

This year marks the 15th anniversary since the film release of cosy comedy Barbershop, which gave viewers an insight into the recondite world of Afro barber shops that, for Afro-Caribbean men, function as a sanctuary, a social hub, a comedy club and more.

Almost two decades later, barbershop culture has been punctuated by popular culture and seeped into the British psyche. On stage, Bijan Sheibani’s production of Inua Ellams’s Barber Shop Chronicles returns to the National Theatre in November, and online comedy series such as Smokeys Barbers attract millions of viewers. And then there are the sport stars and musicians – from Stormzy to Danny Welbeck – who provide a public canvas for sharp ’dos.

Now, enduring interest in barbershops has brought the men with clippers to the fore, with social media offering a platform beyond the chair. Nikita Okyere, “official stylist to the Ghanaian football team”, has more than 64,000 followers on Instagram; and Franklyn Okwedy, who shaves entrepreneur Jamal Edwards, has seen such success that he is opening a second store.

Take Mark Maciver, aka SliderCuts, who has amassed 50,000 Instagram followersand embodies the rise in the superstar barber. His razor-sharp skills have earned him a huge following, with fans booking up to six weeks in advance, as well as celebrity endorsements coming from the likes of Reggie Yates and Tinie Tempah.

Despite the rise of the insta-barber, Maciver is confident that shops will retain their sense of community: “The culture of the barbershop has already been made. Anybody who comes in here adapts,” he says. “Boxer Anthony Joshua comes in and the first thing he does is say hello to everyone. And if there is a barbershop conversation, he gets involved.”
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この記事のURL2017-09-11 12:04:34

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